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November 15, 2008

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Chris

I need to change the brushes in an MK-660. The manual for the saw does not mention how to do this or where to find them on the motor unit and the parts breakdown doesn't show them (unless they're calling them something else). I have personally never done it.

When I went to the parts site for MK Diamond it shows 3 different brush set possibilities for the MK-660. I have no way of telling which motor is in my saw by looking at the exterior and the parts description here is nothing more than brand names.

Baldor Motor, set. p/n 155435
Leeson Motor, set. p/n 153800
RAE Motor, set. p/n 1559832

http://www.mkdiamonddirect.com/category.sc?categoryId=82

Should I be pulling the cover off the bottom to expose the motor to find the motor info?

Also, I have no idea how difficult or tricky changing the brushes is of even where to start. Anyone that has any info from experience that they wish to share I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks a bunch,
Chris

Chris,

There should be a metal stamp on the saw (motor) with the serial number. If you call our customer service line at:

800-421-5830

they will be able to identify the motor and required brushes. They will also be able to assist you in either replacing the brushes or finding a service center near you that can accomplish the work.

Blogmaster

Don Laughhunn

My MK470 water pump isn't pumping (or even vibrating). What up?

Don,

One of two things. It could be that the pump just died and, if you're within the one-year warranty, we can ship you a new one.

The other possibility is that the residue from the cut was not flushed from the pump after use or repeated use and left to dry inside the unit. That will cause the pump to freeze up as the dried residue almost become like a mortar inside and throughout the pump. We recommend that, when you're finished using the saw, running water through the pump until the exit flow is clear (you can do this in the kitchen sink or in a bucket of clean water).

Blogmaster

Don Laughhunn

Well, I'm past the one-year for sure. So if it's the later--not flushed when done (guilty)--is it no possible (somehow) to un-concrete it's internals? If yes, how? If no, can I order a replacement from your website? And, is there the possibility of an electrical solution I could address--didn't I read something about "brushes"? Can / how do I check / assess that?

Don,

At this point, there is probably no solution to getting the pump running. You can view the replacement at:

http://www.mkdiamond.com/tile/acc_pump.html

Mike Ibarra

Hello,
I have a tile cutter MK-70.
Can a 4" saw blade be used to cut plywood and underlayment?

Mike Ibarra

Carl

I've got an access door from garage to backyard going in.I need to cut a concrete curb 12inch high & 8 inch thick. Will an HD rental CX3 series do the job? Any suggestions on how to approach the cuts if so?
thank you.

Don Laughhunn

The blade for my MK470 has become out of alignment w/ the movable bed resulting in less than precise cuts. I've adjusted the adjustable bed guide but still doesn't yield the proper alignment. Ideas?

Tom Nosella

Im having a problem with my MK-100. Its seen very light use.. but now when i turn it on im hearing a sort of rubbing/chirping sound coming from the blade shaft. The noise is still there when i remove the blade... its not there when i remove the belt. Perhaps its a bearing or something in the shaft housing? Im pretty sure my saw is past the 1 year warranty, probably just barely though.

Can the shaft housing be disassembled and cleaned? I was under the impression this was all sealed.

Thanks.
Tom

Blogmaster

Don,

Sorry for the slow response. We had an issue with how things were getting posted on the reply side. You need to call our customer service line at 1-800-TILE-SAW and speak with a tech rep. There are probably more exotic issue like a bent frame that could be causing the allignment issues.

Blogmaster

Brienne Short

I just bought a new mk 101. The first day it cut great, but by the second day it seemed to take too much pushing pressure to cut the tile. It started breaking the smaller side of the cut,and when I would pull the tile back out the blade was off to the side a blade width. I was wondering what adjustment I need to make to fix this problem.
Need Help,
Brie

Blogmaster

Brienne,

This is a simple problem to fix. You're probably cutting a relatively hard tile or stone which is either not perfectly suited to the blade you're using OR you completed a lot of cuts in the early going. Your blade has "glazed" over (meaning that a glaze was created by the heat of the cut and is now masking the diamond in the bonding on the core). All you need to do is make two or three individual 1/4" cuts into a dressing stone (or you can use a piece of brick or cinder block) and the glaze will be removed, the diamonds exposed and the cutting capability restored to the blade.

Blogmaster

Dave Roberts

What is the correct way to use a dressing stone to sharpen my diamond saw blade? Thanks

blogmaster

Dave,

Two or three 1/8-1/4 inch cuts into the dressing stone usually does the trick. Most people tend to "overdress" the blade and make too large or too many cuts into the dressing stone. All you want to do is strip the glaze off of the bond. Less is more in this case as overdressing will rapidly decrease blade life.

John Malik

I have a MK-370. The table is warped 1/8 inch. This effects the end of a cut by creating a break. Do you have a fix?

Don

I have an mk 101 tile saw and just changed the table slide (including the nylon sleeve bearings).

It's not working. The bearings worked fine before they were pressed into the casting, What did I do wrong?

Thanks

Don,

If you tested the nylon bearings on the guide bar before pressing them into the linear guide casting, it means the casting is too small and binding on the bar. We will contact you via e-mail to help you sort out the problem.

Blogmaster

sean

i bought a tx3 saw.i know it's a misting saw but when i turn it on the water line doesn't stay primed there are a lot of air pockets and the line going to water tank drains back while running. i'm afraid this is hurting the pump.is this normal? there's also some dust when cutting. is this normal? thank you

Sean,

You should call our tech line at:

800-421-5830

Give them a full description of the issue and they can provide you with some input. Generally, the misting system gives tile cutters a little sense of unease because they are not used to working with such a smaller amount of water. Both the saw and the TX-3 blades are designed for this and work optimally under these conditions....but...you may in fact be working with too little water and that's something that a quick phone call can determine.

Blogmaster

Jim Maher

Hi--I just purchased a used MK101 Pro. My first project will be to brick a patio. What blade would you recommend for this project. I don't believe the brick i am using is fire hardened since the price i paid was inexpensive. Also,would this blade be appropriate for flat concrete block?

Jim,

For general brick, you can go with an MK-915D or the MK-10S.

http://www.mkdiamond.com/masonry/bld_turbo_915d.html

http://www.mkdiamond.com/masonry/bld_wseg_10.html

For the concrete (we assume you're talking pavers), the MK-10S will probably do the trick but you may want to call our customer service line, give them a quick description of the thickness and basic composition of the material for the best recommendation.

800-421-5830

Blogmaster

Walt Buster

How can you tell if wet saw blade is used or not? I bought a 10 Mk-200 blades on Ebay. Seller claimed they were just dirty and grimy. They relabled them. The blade rim looks fairly smooth. I was expecting a grit bonded to the surface.

Dave Pierce

I just bought a MK-101 and i need to cut 2 1/2 in thick pavers. Will the blade that came with the saw do the job or do i need a different one
Thanks
Dave

Blogmaster

David,

The MK-101 is pre-packaged with a blade for tile. This will not work for pavers and the bond on the core will be worn away very rapidly and not provide any real cutting capability for very long. You can call our customer service line at 1-800-TILE-SAW and describe the type of paver you are cutting and they can recommend the correct type of blade to use for this application.

Blogmaster

anjali

what saw should i use to make angled cuts in glass bottles...also to cut glass bottles into rings?

Anjali,

There are two issues here; both the size of the bottles and the angle at which you want to make the cuts. A lot of artisans utilize 10 inch saws and construct jigs to accomplish the bevel on the glass. Others use 7 inch saws with built in miter heads but these will only adjust from 1-45 degrees on the angle of the miter. If you are cutting wine bottles and items smaller than that, a 7 inch saw like the 370 EXP with a proper blade (MK-215GL or MK-215GL-XL) would be fine. Anything larger and you are looking at a 10 inch saw in the MK-100 series or the TX-3.

http://www.mkdiamond.com/tile/saw_00.html

Blogmaster

Jim Wilson

I am building a dry stack wall with granite and quartz. Many of the stones are approximately 10X12 or larger, but are not flat faced. I am looking for a saw and blade I can use to slice these stones to create a flat face. Do you have recommendations? Should I be looking at a concrete cutter?

Phil Walsh

The blade no longer rotates on my MK770. It acts as if the gears are broken. I can not open the gear box so what should I do?

Blogmaster

Phil,

You're going to need to replace the motor. Call our customer service line at 1-800-TILE-SAW M-F 7:30-4:30 PST to review the specs.

connie

how to cut 20" x 20" tile by MK 101?

joe

i am mounting a pv array on a flat concrete roof. the engineer has not finished the design yet, but i believe we will end up having to drilll 9/16" holes in concrete roof slab, then epoxy in some stainless threaded rod. since it is critical i keep the array frame lined up, i cannot move the hole if (and when), i hit rebar. is there some sort of 9/16" diamond tip drill i can use with my core drill as a regular 'core drill' type bit is too large?

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